Kryptonite and picking appetizers…

When last I blogged , I began discussing piece by piece what a wine geek might look for when looking at a wine menu. I chose a Pittsburgh Restaurant, the Sonoma Grille, as my sample restauarant and wine list, and in Episode I, we picked a sparkling wine to start with, NV Iron Horse Brut “Russian River Cuvee”.

Then, I forgetting that I am not Superman and also forgetting that I am no longer athletic, decided to play two-hand tab football with some younger relatives. I was awesome on the first drive. The second drive, not so good. After landing directly on my shoulder after attempting to make a Deion Sanders-esque interception, I have now announced my retirement. And I don’t mean in that “The Who” kind of way. I mean for good. I felt like Superman in that Lex Luther’s swimming pool with the Kryptonite chained to me. For about a week. My flag football career is over because I have only in about the past 24 hours regained the ability to move my left arm and hence type. (Not so ironically, this coincides with the release of EA Sports College Football 2008.)

Back to the meal and menu. Okay, so we’re sipping on some Iron Horse Bubbly and now we have to look at the appetizers/first courses and then start thinking about the white we will order. Let’s look at the apps (http://www.thesonomagrille.com/DinnerMenu1.php?SECT=3)

[Disclaimer again: I have no affiliation with the Sonoma Grille. I know one of the bartenders vaguely that's about it.]

I’m going to purposefully order a variety of things so that this isn’t to easy. (If you read part 1, there are four of us dining.)

My date and I are going to get the Tapas for two. One guest is going to order the Serrano Wrapped Diver Sea Scallops, and our other guest is a vegetarian and will be getting the wild mushroom and goat cheese strudel.

Okay let’s start determining what we might be looking for in a wine by looking aty the important elements in the dishes:

Tapas for two:

Shrimp Tempura, Asian slaw, scarlet orange and apricot chutney: Normally with most breaded or deep fried things, I drink something with bubbles, either sparkling wine or beer. Our Iron Horse will continue nicely with this, but if we’re going to drink a “still” white wine the slaw, orange, apricot combo leads us to something with sweetness – not necessarily sugar – but ripe fruitiness, spice and sour. This is a complex dish that needs a complex wine, not to full-bodied, but with a lot of character and probably a good dose of acidity to cleanse the palate just like the bubbles would.

Veal cheek and black truffle ravioli, roasted shallot cream, black pepper demi-glace: The truffle and veal cheek are going to be very earthy, the shallot cream sweet, the demi-glass spicy. Again sweet and spicy, and now a wine with some earthy flavors would probably be a good idea as well.

Ahi tartare, sushi roll, white truffle and wasabi mayonnaise, fried lotus root, Tobiko caviar: Spicy. Truffle again – earthy. Tuna is fatty, and the best thing for fatty foods is to use the counterpoint of acidity.

Sesame fried calamari, yuzu and roasted poblano remoulade: FRIED needs bubbles or acidity as we’ve already covered. Poblanos are a type of pepper of course, not real biting, but a little sweet and a little spicy.

And…

Serrano Wrapped Diver Sea Scallops: The Scallops have a fatty texture like the tuna + the spiciness of the serrano ham.

Wild Mushroom and Goat Cheese Strudel: The mushrooms, like truffle, are earthy. We’ll go back to the goat cheese.

Okay so we need a wine that is palate-cleansing; it will cut through fatty fish or greasy fried foods; it should match the spiciness of our foods, be earthy and ripe with good acidity.

In the next post, we’re going to start crossing off white wines from the list until we get a few possible choices for our white wine..

Mi casa su casa

What I love more than anything else is sitting down and cooking a nice meal and enjoying it, along with a few bottles of wine, with some friends new or old. Since my readers are from throughout cyberspace, distance prevents this from happening. So, barring my inability to concentrate too long, I’m going to walk you through our imaginary dinner, or more importantly, our selction of wines, at a well-known Pittsburgh restauarant, the Sonoma Grille. Before you ask, I have no affiliation with it whatsoever, it just has a really nice wine list for lover’s a California wines. Even wine lists in many other major metropolitan areas boast more eccentric, pretentious or what have you wine lists, this i s a good one to look at and perhaps have you look at a wine list the way I do.

Their web site is http://www.thesonomagrille.com/

Before we even get to food, we’re going to start with a bottle of sparkling wine. The sparkling wine list is http://www.thesonomagrille.com/WineList.php?SECT=4&CAT=2&SEP=20.

First, what are we dealing with:

Kenwood Brut NV (California) $7/glass $28/bottle
Villa Sandi Prosecco NV (Italy) $8/$32
Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Blanc 2001 (Carneros) $44
Schramsburg Blanc de Noirs 2001 (Carneros) $75
Iron Horse “Russian River Cuvee” 1999 (Sonoma) $80
J Brut Rose NV (Napa) $82
Veuve Clicquot “Yellow Label” (France) $16/$90
J Schram 1999 (Napa) $175
Dom Perignon 1998 (France) $250

Okay. We’re going to elimate anything above $100 for starters, because we’re going to have four bottles of wine – 1 sparkler, 1 white, 2 reds and maybe after dinner drinks. We’re also going to eliminate anything outside of California (although I love Prosecco): after all we’re at the Sonoma Grille, not Alain Ducasse. We want to experience California. So we’re looking at the following choices:

Kenwood Brut NV (California) $7/glass $28/bottle
Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Blanc 2001 (Carneros) $44
Schramsburg Blanc de Noirs 2001 (Carneros) $75
Iron Horse “Russian River Cuvee” 1999 (Sonoma) $80
J Brut Rose NV (Napa) $82

I’ve never had Kenwood sparkling wine, and I’m sure it’s good, but frankly Kenwood is best known for it’s Merlot, and Merlot is not a grape that goes into sparkling wine, so I’m deleteing that as well. (I’ll be honest, I didn’t know they made sparklers.) Gloria Ferrer is a nice enough choice. As one enters Sonoma County from the south, the vineyards that line the highway are Gloria Ferrer. You’re in the Carneros AVA, one that straddles souther Napa and Sonoma. It is a cooler region owing to the breezes that blow north off the bay. This is a good choice, expecially if we’re pinching pennies, but we’re going to look further. I REALLY like Schramsberg. Schramsberg was the sparkling wine that Nixon served to the Chinese during a summit in the 1960’s. Even so, we don’t want Blanc de Noirs. Real Champagne (and those wines that copy it from outside of France) use three grapes in their production – Chardonnay (White) and Pinot Noir or it’s lesser-known cousin Pinot Meunier (both Red Grapes). Blanc de Noirs (literally white from blacks) is Champagne made entirely from the two red grapes. While the color is still lightish, the body is fuller, in fact, fuller than we want at the beginning of a multi-course dinner with four bottles. By the same reasoning, we’re skipping the Rose. Hence, we are left with one of my old-stand bys, Iron Horse “Russian River Cuvee”, not an unenviable choice. The Russian River Valley is a coller microclimate perfect for sparkling wine production (as is Carneros as we have mentioned). By it’s nature of using both white and red grapes, it’s flavorful but yet refershing, and a perfect way to start the dinner.

Peruse the menu and the whites, and we’ll start picking our appetizers next time…